Universe Battle in a Box Ultra Magnus
AND
Cybertron Deluxe Optimus Prime
Repair/Improvement Instructions
Hey all!
As some may have read by now, the "sheaths" that slide down to cover the fists
on Battle in a Box Ultra Magnus are on the wrong arms, meaning that the cutout
on the front (as seen on Armada Deluxe Prime and Nemesis Prime) is on the back,
killing all elbow articulation.
Normally, a tab makes it impossible to push the forearm inner portions out
without breaking the tab that keeps them secure and sturdy, thereby ruining the
security of the sheaths on the toy, making them flop along the arms loosely.
However, I have found a harmless, easy fix to rectify the situation. This
issue is not currently known to affect the Armada Deluxe Optimus Prime or Armada
Nemesis Prime figures on any regular basis, and so does not apply to those two
versions of this mold. I hope this helps everyone enjoy their figures as
they should be enjoyed - with full articulation as designed! Enjoy, all!
- Orson "Sidecutter" Christian
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STEP ONE To the left is a comparison between the Battle in a Box Ultra Magnus figure, and the original version of the mold, Armada Deluxe Optimus Prime. As you can see, Optimus has a notch on the elbow end of the forearm "sheath" piece which allows for the elbows to bend for posing. Magnus does not, due to an assembly error (hey, we're talking overworked factory employees who make pathetic wages - just how dedicated to quality do we expect them to be, eh?). To begin fixing this, we need to separate the arm at the ball joint located just above the elbow. Go ahead and pop the arm off at that point on both sides of Magnus. |
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STEP TWO 2A) Now then. Out next step is to remove the hinge pin holding the ball joint piece to the rest of the elbow. Why? Well, that gap into which the piece fits in the elbow needs to be empty. This lets the forearm plastic compress together enough to slide past the retaining tab without breakage. UPDATE: The next step may be helped by holding the part under warm or hot water for a minute or two. This will warm and slightly expand the plastic just enough that on *some* units, it can make it much, much easier to remove a tightly embedded joint pin. Don't worry, the plastic will resume it's normal size when it cools, with no harm done! |
| 2B) So. Select a precision screwdriver about the same diameter as the pin. You can get a cheap, but sufficient, set of six to ten at many dollar stores, for, of course, a dollar (in the US, of course). Use it to push the metal pin from the inside of the elbow out. The ribbed, securing piece is on the *outside* of the elbow as the toy was assembled, so trying to put the pin through to the inside will not work well at all. The picture to the left shows what you should see, using the left arm as the example. |
2C) BE CAREFUL. Sometimes, these pins can be very firmly placed, and may take some strong pressure to pop free from the plastic. Don't stab yourself when the screwdriver suddenly comes plunging through the hole! That would NOT be Prime! |
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STEP THREE 3A) OK. Once the pin is popped out, you should see a layout of parts like are shown to the left, one set for each arm. |
| 3B) Now. On the "outside" side of each inner part, you can see the "lip" just above the hinge-pin hole which prevents the forearm from clearing the retaining tab. | 3C) GENTLY push the forearm out as if you were expose the fist for the robot mode. GENTLY. If you break the tab, the toy will never have solidly constructed forearms again. If necessary, use a small, flat blade precision screwdriver's blade to GENTLY compress the lip side of the hinge's "U" bracket away from the retaining tab inside the forearm sheath so that it can slide past. The most important thing here is CAUTION, one last time. If you're rough or incautious, you WILL break the toy without too muchh effort. |
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STEP FOUR Now, you should have, with both arms, a layout of parts like that to the left. This step is very easy! Just flip each forearm sheath over so that the correctly notched side faces up, and switch the two parts, moving each to the opposite arm. |
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STEP FIVE 5A) Now you should see the parts arrangement to the left. The fists in this arrangement should be facing UPWARDS, with the thumbs at the tops. If they aren't, you've mixed them up, and reassembly will land you right back where you started! |
| 5A) Now then. Slide the inner forearm parts gently back into the forearms. You should feel the locking lip at the elbow end pop past the tab with just a little wiggling to fit the forearm into the sheath part. Now, insert the elbow ball joint pieces back into their "U" brackets (it doesn't matter how - there is no incorrect side on these parts, they only fit one way and do not function differently if flipped over). | 5C) Now CAREFULLY slide the hinge pins, smooth end first, back through the elbow assemblies. You may need to use the blade of a larger flat-blade precision screwdriver to press them fully into their original settings. When they're in fully, the knobbing on the textured ends should be completely concealed inside the plastic, with the opposite end surface of the rod more or less flush with the plastic around it on the outside of the forearm. There should be a *slight* indent of the pin into the plastic on the inner side of the forearm. Remember - the knobby, textured ends of the pins belong on the OUTSIDE of the forearm, not the inside. |
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FINISHED!
Viola! You now have a perfect, fully functional Ultra Magnus or Optimus Prime figure, with now harm done to the toy! No one will ever know you repaired it, if you were careful in the process! |